Safety wire question...

Discussion in 'Technical Forum' started by Streethawk, May 8, 2014.

  1. Streethawk

    Streethawk Member

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    My front axle pinch bolts are flush with the fork leg leaving no way to safety wire them. Is this gonna fly?
    And my fork sliders leave no way to safety wire my front axle nut.
    Any advice or opinions?

    [​IMG]
     
  2. Streethawk

    Streethawk Member

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  3. Fireman

    Fireman Well-Known Member

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    Use a punch and then drill through the fork leg and into the allen bolt, leaving access to the bolt.

    Or purchase 4 bolts that will protrude and swap them out for the allen heads.

    One way or the other, you must have the pinch bolts wired to pass tech inspection on a race weekend.
     
  4. Streethawk

    Streethawk Member

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    K. What about my oil drain bolt? Its nearly flush too as shown below.

    [​IMG]
     
  5. Streethawk

    Streethawk Member

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    And the axle nut?
     
  6. macbayne

    macbayne Active Member

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    i would use different axle pinch bolts, and i would come through the front of the oil drain on an angle into the recess for the allen head. i would get rid of the axle sliders.
     
  7. Streethawk

    Streethawk Member

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    Just spent 75 bucks on those sliders from Rhinomoto. Frig haha.
    Thanks for the input gents
     
  8. ronin26

    ronin26 Active Member

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    If the pinch bots are replaced with a socket head bolt you should build a spacer to fill the void left by the absence of the allen head cap screw.

    Drill the drain plug at an angle into the allen portion to wire.
     
  9. Streethawk

    Streethawk Member

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    Can I get away with not wiring the axle nut if I have the axle sliders on?
     
  10. jetfixer15

    jetfixer15 Active Member

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    Axle nuts must be lockwired unless secured by a cotter pin or hitch pin (R-Clips have to be tied or wired closed). Swingarm spool sliders are another option for crash protection instead of the axle sliders. Rear wheel removal and installation will be easier without axle sliders also. Any bolts that don't protrude far enough out for lock wire can be replaced by same bolt in a slightly longer length (to ensure same thread grip area) and a washer under the head to make it protrude out. The protruding bolt head area can then be drilled for wiring. If putting a washer under the head of the current bolts doesn't reduce your thread grip area by more than a few threads (or reduce the thread grip area by more than 20%) that would work too. You will want an easy as possible to access and re-wire set up so wheel changes are easy.
     
  11. Turbo

    Turbo New Member

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    www.pro-bolt.com has all race spec bolts drilled and ready for wire.
     
  12. Streethawk

    Streethawk Member

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    Thanks for the direction, I'll get er done right then
    Cheers
     
  13. xav12srt

    xav12srt New Member

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    Hi, on the same safety wire topic, I was wondering if rivet masterlinks also needed to be safety wired or only the circlip kind in order to race ?
     
  14. Arctic Donkey

    Arctic Donkey Active Member

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  15. xav12srt

    xav12srt New Member

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    Ok, thanks !
     

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