Bleeding your brakes.
Bleed the brakes (master first, then furthest caliper, then closest) and look carefully for air as you are bleeding the system. Place clear hose on nipple into a jar to collect brake fluid, open nipple, squeeze brake lever, watch for bubbles, close nipple, release lever...repeat (open, squeeze,look,close,release) for half a reservoir of fluid (or more) for each caliper. Remove hose, spray area with brake cleaner and wipe, replace rubber dust guard. NEVER reuse brake fluid, no matter how clean it looks.
The front and rear circuits are independent (with the exception of bikes with Race ABS where the circuits are connected through the ABS unit), so bleed both if the rear feels spongy.
Prior to opening any bleed nipples wipe the area and your brake lines with a clean white cloth (paper towel) and look for any brake fluid residue (especially around banjo nuts and any 'T's in your system). Also check for damaged lines etc. etc. It doesn't take much to depressurize a braking system, but typically you would see a leak (fluid run/drip down).
Once you are satisfied there are no leaks you have to deal with, run more than a reservoir of fluid through the lines while bleeding. If your fluid is dark (most DOT 3&4 brake fluids are hygroscopic and will absorb water) I would drain most/all of the fluid out of the reservoir before starting the process and refilling with new to get new fluid into the lines sooner (rather than old/new mix).
I would also do the bleed as soon as possible to see how it feels after the bike sits for a few days and before your first corner on the track. Bleeding should take less than 15 minutes, so you could do it between races if necessary (speaking from experience
May the brake force be with you...
Darel