07 r6 front brakes not working??

Discussion in 'Technical Forum' started by sleakk99, Sep 10, 2016.

  1. sleakk99

    sleakk99 New Member

    Joined:
    May 14, 2012
    Messages:
    3
    Likes Received:
    0
    Hey any body have any advise over my issue? I have an 07 r6 that I'm tracking tomorrow. Bike worked just fine. Parked it and now I'm going over the bike, cleaning it up fresh oil, clean filter out and I notice my front brakes are not working. They barely brake. I haven't don't anything to the bike
    Still have plenty of brake pads, fluid is topped up. I'm stunned completely. Any help is much appreciated.
     
  2. RockThePylon

    RockThePylon Member

    Joined:
    Dec 27, 2011
    Messages:
    61
    Likes Received:
    0
    Is the lever still firm, or does it go to the bar?

    Is it possible something contaminated the pads? Soap from washing it, leaking fork seals, greasy fingers?
     
  3. sleakk99

    sleakk99 New Member

    Joined:
    May 14, 2012
    Messages:
    3
    Likes Received:
    0
    Yes the lever pulled all the way to the bar. Strange as hell. Brakes worked fine. Fluids topped of but getting dark. I drained the reseviour hooked it back up n slowly opened the bleeder valve until clear brake fluid came out. I than bleed the master cylinder n wham I had resistance. So since I was here I drained the rears but somehow I got air in the system but once the clean brake fluid started shooting out I basically had the bleeder bolt closed n it slowly pushed out bubbly fluid out n got compression again n closed the off fully. Brakes are back working. I'm still stunned how they just stopped working after the bike was parked for a month.
     
  4. DMesher

    DMesher Active Member

    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2012
    Messages:
    127
    Likes Received:
    2
    Real Name:
    Darel Mesher
    Bleeding your brakes.

    Bleed the brakes (master first, then furthest caliper, then closest) and look carefully for air as you are bleeding the system. Place clear hose on nipple into a jar to collect brake fluid, open nipple, squeeze brake lever, watch for bubbles, close nipple, release lever...repeat (open, squeeze,look,close,release) for half a reservoir of fluid (or more) for each caliper. Remove hose, spray area with brake cleaner and wipe, replace rubber dust guard. NEVER reuse brake fluid, no matter how clean it looks.

    The front and rear circuits are independent (with the exception of bikes with Race ABS where the circuits are connected through the ABS unit), so bleed both if the rear feels spongy.

    Prior to opening any bleed nipples wipe the area and your brake lines with a clean white cloth (paper towel) and look for any brake fluid residue (especially around banjo nuts and any 'T's in your system). Also check for damaged lines etc. etc. It doesn't take much to depressurize a braking system, but typically you would see a leak (fluid run/drip down).

    Once you are satisfied there are no leaks you have to deal with, run more than a reservoir of fluid through the lines while bleeding. If your fluid is dark (most DOT 3&4 brake fluids are hygroscopic and will absorb water) I would drain most/all of the fluid out of the reservoir before starting the process and refilling with new to get new fluid into the lines sooner (rather than old/new mix).

    I would also do the bleed as soon as possible to see how it feels after the bike sits for a few days and before your first corner on the track. Bleeding should take less than 15 minutes, so you could do it between races if necessary (speaking from experience :)

    May the brake force be with you...

    Darel
     
    Last edited: Sep 13, 2016

Share This Page